It’s been a long time since we have traveled to Southern Oregon. Our last trip was about 15 years ago and it was a trip for the purpose of camping and fly- fishing. Having a young son at home at that time, we were not really interested in looking for good wine – we were merely trying to have a family vacation on a tight budget. Hence, lots of camping and lots of fishing. Now, 15 years later, our trip down South took on a whole new meaning. I must admit that I enjoyed our trip so much more this time because our lodging was a comfortable bed and not a sleeping bag, and my husband decided to leave his fly rod at home for a change. The weather was sunny and warm and it was the perfect time of year to visit wineries and to see what all the hoopla is about regarding Southern Oregon wines.
Our first stop during our travel was to Abacela Vineyards and Winery. We researched this winery and we were very excited to try their wines because many of them are from Spanish varietals. We have never featured a Spanish varietal for our wine club, so we were determined to find the perfect wines. We were not disappointed. We arrived late in the day, after driving seven hours and we were in need of a glass of our favorite elixir. We were immediately taken with Abacela’s beautiful piece of property, the gazebo that overlooks the vineyards and the Mediterranean style tasting room and winery. Linda Kistner, the tasting room manager, was a true delight and she was extremely knowledgeable about this winery. Abacela is owned by Earl and Hilda Jones and their love of Tempranillo is what sparked their interest in growing this grape. Their piece of property on Looking-glass Road outside Roseburg, Oregon, has the perfect conditions for growing this black grape which is widely grown to make rich, full-bodied wines in Spain. Since this vineyard is at the same latitude as Spain’s Ribera de Duero and Rioja regions, it’s no wonder Tempranillo thrives here. We fell in love with their Tempranillo Umpqua Cuvee, their 2007 Garnacha, and of course their Albarino. Our last taste of the day was their port-style wines from Portuguese grapes that they fortify with brandy that is distilled at their own winery. It was difficult to pick our favorites, but we went with their Tempranillo because this is their flagship wine. As early as 2001, they were awarded a double gold for their 1998 Tempranillo at the San Francisco International Wine Competition and this wine has received accolades ever since. We also decided to feature their Albarino, because it is a unique white to the Northwest and it is the perfect, crisp white wine to accompany seafood. I know our wine club members are going to be excited about our new find. Of course I didn’t leave this winery until I had a bottle of their port in my hands. (I had visions of a hot bubble bath at our Marriott Hotel, a good book in one hand and a glass of port in the other. What a perfect way to end our first day of travels.) We want to extend a big thank you to Linda Kistner, who provided us with a couple of great recipes to pair with our wine selections. We will feature these recipes in July, when we feature this winery for our July wine club members.
Day Two – Applegate AVA
Our day began with a drive through the country side of Medford and on into Jacksonville. What a beautiful drive this was. The town of Jacksonville is full of unique shops and boutiques, along with a few wine tasting rooms. I was eager to stop and do a little shopping, but we had a full day planned and shopping really wasn’t on our list. Following the winding roads outside of Jacksonville on Highway 238, we wanted to stop in at LongSword Vineyard. Linda Kistner suggested that we stop at this small winery because they make a wonderful sparkling Chardonnay as well as Dolcetto and Syrah. We arrived a little bit before 11 a.m., but it took us some time to work our way up their lane. We were greeted, or I should say, “challenged,” by a couple of geese who took on our van, without ruffling a feather. We slowly moved our way toward the tasting room, but not without honking our horn, waving our arms and having a good laugh. We parked our van and we were greeted by owner and wine maker Matthew Sorensen, who was out in the vineyard, pruning his vines. He informed us that our greeters were Lewey and
Dewey, two of the seven geese that serve as guards over the vineyard. Before our visit was over, we enjoyed watching all seven of his pet geese follow Matt around like he was the Pied Piper. His whimsical feathered friends are Hewey, Lewey and Dewey, Boras, Natasha, and Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dumb.
The new tasting room at LongSword was opened in 2009. Before that time, Matt said that they literally sold their wines from a road side stand. During the summer months, a typical visit to this winery might include music, food, wine and a spectacular viewing of paragliders coming off nearby Woodrat Mountain and landing in the open fields of LongSword.
Matt is proud of his wine and he believes strongly that the wine is made in the vineyard. Matt and his wife, Maria Largaespada, moved to Oregon in 1999 to pursue their dream of growing grapes and making good wine. I believe that they have full-filled that dream. We learned from Matt that the name of their winery is actually the Spanish translation of his wife’s last name, “Largaespada.” Larga is Spanish for “long” and espada is Spanish for “sword.” Hence, LongSword. Their winery is a family affair and a proud one too. Although we didn’t get to meet his wife, Maria, we did get the opportunity to meet and visit with his daughter, Melinda. She and her father are personable and share a true love for their family business. We really enjoyed visiting with Matt and we thoroughly enjoyed his Sparkling Chardonnay and his Touche Rose. We quickly purchased a case of the Sparkling Chardonnay because this happens to be one of my favorite white wines when I can find it.
As we continued on Highway 238, we spotted many signs for wineries – some that we weren’t aware of. Immediately we knew that we had to narrow our search, or else our 2 day tasting trip would soon turn into a week- long trip. Our next stop at Troon Vineyard was a must. We featured Troon back in October 2009 when we visited their tasting room in Carlton, Oregon. Their wines were so popular with our club members and our website, that we needed to pick up more to replace what had already been sold. We thought, “we’ll just pop in and pick up what we need and leave.” Well, a quick trip to Troon is impossible. This is one winery that just pulls you in the minute you pull into their drive. As soon as you drive up to the parking area, you are wowed by the French style winery that sits among the 90 plus acres of vineyard. It has copper gutters that shine in the sun and it draws your attention to the large picture window that provides everyone who visits and incredible panoramic view of Applegate Valley. The large tasting room with its hardwood floors, granite tasting bars and personable staff, make you want to stay and linger. Our experience lasted well over an hour. We enjoyed meeting fellow wine lovers from Napa Valley, who are also members of Troon’s wine club and they were very interested in learning about our unique club. Corey, the tasting room expert, was so friendly and personable as she poured us many fine wines from their extensive collection. Sensing that we all were really enjoying ourselves, Corey decided to give us all a complete tour of the winery. Taking a stroll around the grounds, we found a picnic area with beautiful lawn furniture and a fountain that sets the stage for the outdoor winery experience. Their winery is continuing to evolve and they recently put in a bocce ball court and they eventually want to tear down an older building and put in a new building for all of their catering and dinner events.
Next we made our way to the crush pad and the building where all of their wine is made and stored. This building is kept at a constant temperature of about 58 degrees. I loved the feel of the old world heavy doors as we made our way into their storage rooms. The aroma of French Oak and wine filled our senses and our taste buds were treated to a taste of their cab, which was still in need of cellaring; but a quick taste pulled from the barrel was a real treat. Winemaker Herb Quady creates superb Old World wines. Our favorites continue to be the Meritage, Druid’s Fluid Red, River Guide White and their Vermentino. (Apparently we are the only wine business that still have a few bottles left of the Vermentino. Last years production was small, and what they did have went to several local restaurants. Now I will treat those few bottles I have left, like they are made of gold.)
Our wine tasting adventure continued as we left Troon and headed to Wooldridge Creek Winery. This winery is a bit rustic and elegant at the same time.
Adirondack chairs grace the lawn and gardens in front of the tasting room. On a sunny afternoon, it is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of 2008 Warrick White while sitting in a comfortable chair and taking in the rolling hillside overlooking the Applegate River Valley. Wooldridge Creek has been outsourcing its fruit to other wineries for many years. From great fruit, comes great wine. Wooldridge is no exception. Winemakers Greg Paneitz and Kara Olmo, have a true talent for making wine from the vineyards warm-weather grapes. We especially enjoyed their Warrick White, the 2007 Merlot and their 2005 Late Bottled Vintage Port.
On our way back to Medford, we stopped at Truim. We had heard about this small winery and we were really interested in experiencing their flight of wines. We were not
disappointed. The tasting room is small, but it resembles an ivy-covered English cottage with its front door nestled with ivy and a welcome sign to greet you. Outside, there is an amazing view of Bear Creek Valley and its rich agricultural land. When we entered, we were greeted by Laura Lotspeich, co-owner and the manager of Pheasant Hill Vineyard. Her quick smile and friendly nature, made us feel right at home. We learned a little about the history of Truim which began making wine under their own label in 2003; but they have been selling fruit to others for many years. Their wine is made from the fruit of three vineyards, Pheasant Hill, Gold Vineyard and Evans Creek Vineyard, all of which are certified as LIVE and Salmon Safe. The name Trium is Latin for “of the three.” We started with their white wines, the pinot gris and their viognier. Both were superb. But we immediately got the “wow effect,” when we tasted their 2005 Growers’ Cuv’ee. This wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This wine’s flavors continued to develop in our mouth, long after the first sip. It is one of those wines that you continue to talk about long after you have finished your first glass. This was a definite selection for our wine club members. Their superb wines are made by veteran winemaker Peter Rosback of Sineann Cellars. He has been making wine for over 20 years here in the U.S. as well as in New Zealand. He has quite the reputation in Oregon.
The end of day two was spent touring Ashland, Oregon. We had hoped to be able to take in a Shakespeare Play, but the season was a bit early, so enjoying the outdoor theater in April was out. But we did enjoy the shops and the town was busy because the Independent Film Festival was taking place. We were a bit tired of wine tasting, so we thought we might enjoy a pint of beer at a local Irish Pub called Paddy Brannan’s. All I can say is the beer was excellent, the food was poor and the music was average. After one beer, we called it a day and headed back to our room, where we went over our notes for the day and made a decision on which wines we would be featuring soon.
Day Three
What better way to begin your day than with cheese and chocolate. We wanted to experience Rogue Valley Creamery, because their production of blue cheese is legendary. At 9 a.m. in the morning, the small cheese store was packed with visitors. The scent of over powering blue cheese greets you as you enter the store. Awards, too many to count, line their walls and shelves. Their Rogue Valley Creamy Blue Cheese took first place several years ago at an international competition. It beat out 1,400 other blue cheese entries. They have several styles of blue cheese, all of which are good; but the Rogue Valley Creamy Blue is perfection! They can’t keep it in their store for long. We purchased a small wedge of this creamy delight in spite of its high price ($43 a pound). I have never spent that much for a wedge of cheese before but it was worth the price and the experience.
Across the parking lot is a quaint building, where Lillie Belle Farms Artisan Chocolates is located. Their award winning artisan chocolates are completely hand-made using time-honored European techniques, but with a true American twist. The artistry involved in their chocolates is amazing. In the center of this cute shop is a chocolate sculpture of a pear tree in full bloom with eggs and bunnies nestled beneath it. You feel the need to touch, but that’s a big “no-no.” We tasted many fine chocolates such as the Lavender Chocolate Caramel with Fleur du sel salt (featured on Oprah’s favorite list), the Smokey Blue Cheese Ganache and chocolate covered bacon bits. No need to twist my arm when asked if I wanted to purchase a few pieces. I wanted one of each, but I managed to leave with only four pieces. (I was looking forward to our afternoon picnic – wine, chocolate and cheese – need I say more?)
Our first winery stop for the day was RoxyAnn Winery, just outside Medford. If you can only visit one winery in the Rogue Valley Area, this one would be a good stop. Their list of varietals is extensive, from pinot gris, viognier, merlot, syrah, tempranillo and dessert wines as well. They also have a number of other Oregon wines for sale that are custom-crushed at their winemaking facility. Gus Janeway has been their winemaker for a number of years and a fine winemaker he is. He is now producing wines under his own label, Velocity, which is also sold at RoxyAnn. Replacing Gus Janeway is renowned winemaker from Napa Valley, John Quinones whose credentials for making wine are very impressive. (Check out RoxyAnn Winery website for his story.) I’m sure many more years of incredible, award winning wines will be coming their way.
RoxyAnn has a wonderful winery with a tasting room located inside the beautifully restored Hillcrest barn. This white barn, with its green trim, is listed on the National Register of
Historic Places. Inside you will find a large, bright colorful space with an impressive wine bar and gift store. Their staff is generous with the line of flights that they serve and their willingness to share their knowledge of RoxyAnn’s wine history. This is the perfect place to bring a picnic and enjoy a glass of wine in their picnic area overlooking the fruit orchards and vineyards. During the summer, they host a Farmer’s Market each Saturday. They support local growers of fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers. People can pick up their fresh produce and at the same time, pick up their wine. According to Ned Armstrong (wine specialist and sales person for RoxyAnn) this venture has tripled their wine sales on Saturday.
Ned Armstrong was kind enough to give us a complete tour of this winery. The orchards on this property date back 100 years, when two families came together and purchased the 250 acres. During earlier times, the fruit from this orchard provided fruit for the up and coming Harry and David’s. A smart move for a small farm many years ago….and the rest is history. This farm still produces fruit from its orchards as well as wine grapes which were planted in 1997. Although the farm has been around for 100 years, the winery began in 2002. At its beginning, it produced approximately 300 cases of wine and now it produces over 11,000. Our recommendations for this winery are many; but our top picks are the 2007 Estate Claret, and the 2008 Pinot Gris, both of which took a silver medal at the 2010 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
After our visit to RoxyAnn, we decided to head back to Jacksonville, tour some of the shops and have a picnic at their state park. Jacksonville is a quaint town that was founded after gold was discovered in 1851-1852. It was the county seat until 1927, when the county seat was moved to Medford. It was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco, CA. Jacksonville has been designated as a National Historic District, and over 100 buildings have been preserved. The shops are quaint, but I enjoyed the architecture of the old brick buildings and their battered wood floors, more. We enjoyed our light lunch of crackers and creamy blue cheese, some hard salami and of course a bottle of Pinot Gris from Troon Winery and our yummy Lillie Belle chocolates, before heading to the next winery on our list.
Schmidt Family Vineyards
This beautiful winery and its grounds will leave you breathless. When we arrived the large gravel parking lot was filled to the max. We were hesitant to go further, because big crowds do not make a wine tasting experience great. But the beautiful grounds, large pond and the huge veranda with great views of this former 12 acre abandoned ranch land, were too good to pass up.
This first class winery is owned by Cal and Judy Schmidt. The property was once ranch land, but after purchasing it in 2000, they began the process of turning it into a productive winery. In 2001 they planted merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. Not long after that, they decided to plant the Spanish varietal, Albarino because it does so well in this AVA. Their first vintage in 2004 produced on 300 cases. Today, they produce upwards of 1700 cases and they continue to grow.
The tasting room is very open, large and inviting with its craftsman style and soaring ceilings. The tasting bar is large and accommodates many people at once. The barrel room is spectacular and the visiting area with its comfortable furniture and homey atmosphere, sits between the tasting bar and the barrel room. It is so inviting that you feel like you are visiting family and not a business. I’m sure former cabinetmaker, Cal Schmidt, was instrumental in its design. The large picture window overlooks the large veranda and the incredible views. The beautiful gardens, pond, walking paths and its overall landscaping were the design and input of Judy Schmidt, who happens to be a Master Gardener.
The tasting area was very crowded because our visit happened to be the one day that their wine club members were there for a winery event and wine pick up. But we managed to meet grandson, Duncan, who was pleased to share their wine flight. We enjoyed their 2008 Gewurztraminer, which is a very dry wine yet well balanced. Our favorite wine, which wasn’t opened for tasting that day, but Duncan was kind enough to share, was their 2007 Soulea. Soulea is an acronym of their family names: Schmidt/Ohls/Uhruh/Lond/Elizabeth/Arelene. This is a beautiful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Merlot (50%) and Syrah (30%). It is rich with aromas of black fruit and it has a long finish.
Valley View Winery
I believe we may have saved the best winery for last. Like Troon Vineyards, this winery has a long history in Applegate Valley. The original Valley View Winery was founded in the mid-1800’s by Peter Britt. In 1972, the Wisnovsky family carried on the tradition of Valley View Winery when they purchased the property and planted 12 acres of premium wine grapes. This was one of the earliest vineyards in Oregon. In 1978 they opened their first tasting room. Since then, the tasting room as been remodeled and it offers a beautiful gift shop, a large tasting bar and a beautiful patio area overlooking some of the oldest vineyards around and incredible mountain views.
Valley View Winery has employed the same winemaker for 25 years. This is rare to find in the wine world. John Guerrero is a remarkable winemaker. No wonder their wines have been at the White House. (Make sure and take in their gallery area, where pictures of President Regan and the Wisnovskys’ grace the walls.) John Guerrero produces 7000 cases of wine each year. In 2000, he produced 14,000 cases but he soon realized that consumers prefer finer wines and 7000 cases seemed to be the best way to meet those demands. Their wines carry the name Anna Maria Wines, named after the Wisnovskys’ mother.
We were wowed immediately with our first sip of 2007 Anna Maria Viognier. Viognier is fast becoming one of my favorite white wines of all time. This particular vintage is right up there on my list as one of the best Viogniers I have ever tasted. No wonder this one took two gold medals. Their entire flight of red wines were incredible but the one that stood out the most for us was the 2006 Anna Maria Cabernet Franc. It was such a treat, that we not only bought several bottles but we purchased a glass and enjoyed the end of our day sitting out on their patio, taking in the spectacular views and imagining the history and stories that this place could tell.
I must mention the tasting room staff. Sarah was our host that day and we were immediately drawn to her warm smile and her knowledge of this winery. We arrived at this winery 30 minutes before closing. We were never rushed and we enjoyed visiting with her and four other visitors. Well after 5 p.m., we had our class of Cabernet Franc in our hand and we wanted to enjoy the sunny weather and take in the views. All other visitors had left and Sarah allowed us to remain on the property for as long as we wanted and told us to just pull the front gate closed when we left. It was the most relaxing experience at a winery that we have had in a long time. Her trust in us, that we would respect the property and take care to secure it upon leaving, was greatly appreciated.
This winery is definitely one everyone must experience during their travels to Southern Oregon. There is something to be said about the history of a place. You will be able to experience this when you visit Valley View Vineyards and Winery.
The End of a Long Two Days
Visiting wineries for the purpose of research as well as pleasure can be exhausting believe it or not. A lot of tasting, taking notes and making decisions, occurs during our short visits. We make sure to only take in 3-4 wineries a day, so we are not rushed and we can enjoy the overall experience. The one thing that I find the hardest to do is to taste and spit – when all I really want to do is swallow every drop. But to avoid what I like to call palate fatigue, it is important to take small sips and to spit often. By the end of each day, I am thankful that I remembered to spit.
My husband and I always like to make sure and take in one, expensive and fabulous meal during our travels. We will often research what the area has to offer; but most of the time we let the locals tell us where to go. Sarah, at Valley View Winery, strongly recommended the restaurant called “38 Central” in Medford. The restaurant is named after their address. How clever is that? This restaurant is elegant yet casual and the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal and a great bottle of wine without breaking the bank.
Sarah did not steer us wrong. Their menu has a nice variety of American dishes; but made with a twist. We enjoyed an appetizer of their “all grown up – Mac and Cheese.” This was true comfort food to the max. Made with our favorite Rogue Creamery Aged Cheddar, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Hardwood Smoked Bacon – my husband and I were fighting over the last morsel. My husband enjoyed an entrée of sole, steamed with roasted red peppers and onions served with gingered rice. I enjoyed a rich and creamy dish of asparagus and chicken served over pasta with loads of garlic flavor. We paired our dinner with one of our favorite wines which is currently hard to find, the 2008 Troon Vermentino. What a perfect match. We also managed to find room to share a beautiful light dessert of puffed pastry, stuffed with strawberries and rich cream, dusted with powdered sugar and a touch of chocolate. What a way to end a perfect meal. Our hats are off to Chef de Cuisine, Matthew Griffin, for preparing a wonderful and memorable dinner. We also want to thank owners David and Michael who opened this elegant yet casual restaurant in 2008. We plan to return again when our travels take us to Medford, Oregon and we encourage others to do the same. You won’t be disappointed!
So, our trek to Southern Oregon has come to an end. It was everything that we had hoped for and more. With the economic down turn, and the stresses of life in general, it was wonderful to find a place, not far away, where we could relax, enjoy the country side, its people and of course the abundance of what the “vines have to offer.” Southern Oregon can be proud of its wine region and its wine industry. We plan to visit again soon, but next time, I’m sure we will have a fly-rod in hand. This is the perfect place where my husband can enjoy fly-fishing, while I enjoy a glass of wine, a novel and wait for him to catch the perfect dinner.
Cheers!
I like to think that wine goes with all things good in life. What better way to spend a sunny Memorial weekend, but by sipping wines from wonderful wineries in the Red Mountain AVA. As usual, we had a mission in mind, so we narrowed our search for only Red Mountain AVA reds and whites and if lucky, an AVA port, that we will feature for our wine club members and an upcoming wine tasting party for members. We also needed to find a reasonable red table wine for our son’s upcoming wedding. So the search was on. With open minds and wine glasses in hand, we checked out all the tasting rooms lying between Prosser and Richland which are just off I-82. It was fun not only to check out the tasting rooms, but to drive through some of the state’s best known vineyards such as Klipsun, Hedges, Kiona and Ciel du Cheval.




